Kenmore D433 Ele 2406026 Fm54

By | July 11, 2022

Kenmore Dryer Parts

Popular Kenmore Dryer Parts

Multi Rib Belt – 92-ane/four”

PartSelect Number
PS346995

Manufacturer Part Number
341241

This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/iv” wide, and 92 ane/4 inches in length. It comes in blackness and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Heat stays on after pulsate has stopped
  • No rut or not enough estrus
  • Noisy
  • See more…

Installation Instructions

Ray from Denton, TX

Dryer tub belt broke

Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, and then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer superlative with a small flat head screw driver. The meridian of the dryer will fold back out of the mode. At this indicate I removed the 2 1/four inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front end left and correct corners that agree the forepart panel/door to the ii side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front end panel that contains the dryer door that I merely removed was held on the lesser past ii clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the lesser of the front panel, just pull upwards on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the forepart panel , which I merely removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if y’all lay the dryer on its back at this bespeak with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of congenital up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right mitt side. If your chugalug is broke like mine the tensioner may/will autumn to the back of the dryer when y’all tilt it dorsum, merely do not worry. One time the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , nevertheless on its dorsum and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not take a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circumvolve smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, and so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new chugalug did have a rolling wheel that the chugalug would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new chugalug came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: practice not take the tensioner bicycle off/autonomously when trying to road the chugalug. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the lesser floor of the dryer making certain information technology is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is withal on its dorsum side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the forepart pully of the motor. Make certain y’all accept the grooves of the belt confronting the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking record that was belongings the belt effectually the tub and spin the tub by manus watching the belt making sure information technology is non in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is notwithstanding sealed on the back side wall. Equally y’all plow the tub past hand yous can adjust the chugalug by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal chugalug. Likewise double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the forepart panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are 1 the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer dorsum up and spin the tub past hand again making certain information technology has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was utilise to the extra noise fabricated past a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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Door Catch Kit

PartSelect Number
PS334230

Manufacturer Part Number
279570

This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Take hold of, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the torso of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The grab holds the door strike to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch closed, y’all won’t be able to start a drying cycle. If this role is malfunctioning, you lot may not be able to open up or close your door. In some instances, it may seem like your door is endmost, but if information technology is non latching properly you won’t be able to outset your drying cycle. You should supplant this role every bit soon as it’s malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, but information technology is unsafe if the dryer continues to run while the door is open. This replacement office features 1 door latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set up of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metallic, and comes in white/silver.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Door won’t close
  • Lid or door won’t shut
  • No heat or non enough heat
  • Run across more…

Dryer Thermal Fuse

PartSelect Number
PS11741460

Manufacturer Role Number
WP3392519

The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic condom mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor excursion when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not offset. A thermal fuse fails when the frazzle temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This tin can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted frazzle vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a 1-fourth dimension fuse, significant it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features ii 3/16 inch terminals.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Heat stays on afterward drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off besides soon
  • Run into more…

Installation Instructions

ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT

Dryer was working, simply no heat.

First I unplugged the dryer, so removed the back panel, this exposed almost all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see whatsoever broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from information technology with a small pair of needle olfactory organ pliers, information technology was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out hands, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could non go a reading.
I replaced with a new 1 and put it all dorsum together the way I took information technology autonomously.
Then I plugged it in and information technology worked first time, I now accept warm dry clothes.

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Roller Support Tri-Ring

PartSelect Number
PS11755850

Manufacturer Part Number
WPW10512946

If you notice that your dryer is noisy or volition not tumble, y’all may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either instance, you lot will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, yous will simply need to slip it off and supervene upon it with the new one. This role is sold individually. Exist sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.

Installation Instructions

John from Tucson, AZ

worn out part

The repair was fairly easy. The almost timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to betrayal the repair.
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Rear Pulsate Support Roller Kit

PartSelect Number
PS347627

Manufacturer Part Number
349241T

The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does non include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will non tumble. The tools needed to complete this repair are a putty knife, Phillips spiral driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced direct from the manufacturer.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • Run across more…

Installation Instructions

Mark from Fremont, NE

Wife told me Dryer would make a funny audio, then end + had an a funny odour besides. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be supervene upon.

The all-time function of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider simply buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back – half dozen screws
2) Removed dryer vent – 2 screws on superlative, three on bottom
iii) Popped the top open
four) Removed Front of dryer chiffonier – 2 screws
v) Removed Belt
vi) Removed Pulsate
7) Cleaned up all lint

8) Pop off motor retainers forepart and back
Hither is the tricky office for me.
nine) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to concur it while you lot likewise take a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a unproblematic left to loosey operation. I first tryed to plow the fan blade to take it off, just proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I likewise replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new chugalug. Not that diffucult of a repair Skilful Luck, was certainly better than ownership a new i at + $300.00 at Black Fri rates.


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Idler Pulley Assembly

PartSelect Number
PS11743765

Manufacturer Function Number
WP691366

This role provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. Information technology also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes likewise long to dry, or is noisy during operation, y’all may demand to replace the idler pulley associates. Make certain to disconnect power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the bulldoze chugalug equally well. You will need a putty pocketknife, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Noisy
  • Takes likewise long to dry
  • Volition Not Beginning
  • See more than…

Installation Instructions

Ray from Denton, TX

Dryer tub chugalug broke

Removed the 2 screws that attatch the lent channel to the pinnacle of the dryer, then lifted the meridian of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer peak with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold dorsum out of the manner. At this point I removed the two ane/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and correct corners that concur the front console/door to the two side panels. At present I was able to lift the forepart panel up and set information technology to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I only removed was held on the lesser by ii clips that slide into slots on the forepart console and did non require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front end panel, simply pull up on the front console. Since the tub was held in identify by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the forepart panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the lesser of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing upward. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of congenital upward lent and removed all the pieces of the sometime , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the forepart of the motor which on the lesser right hand side. If your belt is bankrupt like mine the tensioner may/will autumn to the back of the dryer when yous tilt information technology back, only do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned upwardly I put the tub dorsum in place , all the same on its back and fabricated sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another annotation, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling bicycle that the chugalug rode on , but was a semi-circumvolve smooth surface that the chugalug remained in abiding friction with when the dyer was running, so I fabricated sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new chugalug did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Notation: do not take the tensioner bike off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back one-half into the slot in the lesser floor of the dryer making sure information technology is aligned with the chugalug pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to road the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front end pully of the motor. Make sure you lot accept the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. At present you can remove the masking tape that was holding the chugalug around the tub and spin the tub by paw watching the chugalug making sure information technology is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. Every bit you plough the tub past manus you lot tin can adjust the belt past hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal chugalug. Too double check the two alingment rollers and make certain they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the 2 screws in that agree the front console to the two side panels. Now stand up the dryer back up and spin the tub by paw over again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the acme. I am not certain when the belt started failing on my dryer, just was amazed at how tranquility information technology runs at present. Guess I was utilise to the extra dissonance made past a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Read more…

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Bulldoze Motor with Pulley

PartSelect Number
PS334304

Manufacturer Part Number
279827

This motor fits nigh Whirlpool incorporated dryer brands before 1996. Annotation: Pulley is Non bachelor separately.

Fixes these symptoms

  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more…

Installation Instructions

Marking from Fremont, NE

Wife told me Dryer would make a funny audio, then stop + had an a funny odor as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was fourth dimension to exist supplant.

The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

one) Removed dorsum – 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent – 2 screws on height, 3 on bottom
three) Popped the elevation open
4) Removed Forepart of dryer cabinet – 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
vii) Cleaned upward all lint

8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the catchy part for me.
nine) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open concluded wrench on it to hold it while y’all also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. And so its a simple left to loosey operation. I get-go tryed to turn the fan blade to accept it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it autonomously I besides replaced the Drum back up rollers & Installed a new chugalug. Not that diffucult of a repair Adept Luck, was certainly amend than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Fri rates.


Read more…

M Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834

M Serial New Manner Coil Kit

PartSelect Number
PS334310

Manufacturer Role Number
279834

When the igniter reaches a loftier enough temperature, these coils (Roll Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Scroll Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open up the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a rubber mechanism to ensure that at that place are no unsafe buildups of gas within your apparatus. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does non estrus or heats intermittently, the coil may not exist opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective ringlet, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can interruption as a result of textile fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is synthetic of plastic and metal. Information technology comes in black/beige. This role features a 3-last boost/hold coil and a two-terminal secondary coil

Fixes these symptoms

  • No heat or non enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Shuts off too soon
  • Run into more…

Installation Instructions

Michael from Kirkwood, MO

Gas Dryer would not ignite

1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical string and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the lesser forepart panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic leave vent and took it out to give more room to admission everything.
four. removed ii wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
v. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder spiral. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor tin can exist taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new ane on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter within the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole associates toward the dorsum of the car to become the tube off the gas valve so rotated the whole associates counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a piddling tight and had to work with it a chip to get the tab out and slide the whole slice out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new i. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the opposite to place the tube/igniter dorsum into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the subclass that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which 1 has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the erstwhile with the new. Placed the subclass onto the new coils and made sure the piddling bumps on the peak are in the holes in the subclass. Tightened the screws to concord the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the mode back on.

10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.

eleven.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the go out vent on the dorsum was non crimped or chock-full. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to brand sure it opens and closes super easy to no air menstruation is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom console open up. Make sure you airtight the door, reconnect the plug and plough the gas valve back on. Hitting the get button on autodry or timed dry out. The door must be closed to create the airtight circulation of the system then the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hit the become button your pulsate will outset to rotate, then a few seconds afterward you’ll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn vivid orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.

fourteen. This shows that yous’ve fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I idea that could be incorrect in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were near $137 so I thought information technology was worth making sure.

15. Of import: If during your test the flame turns off afterwards a fiddling while and then turns back on simply to turn off again, don’t panic. This happened to me too. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the frazzle. If it’due south on timed dry the wet clothes will absurd the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry out clothes to go out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it’due south been working great so far. Good Luck!

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Leveling Foot

PartSelect Number
PS1609293

Manufacturer Function Number
49621

If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when information technology reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so that the auto is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Keep the washer as close to the floor as possible. Your model might have rear legs that level themselves, or it might have threaded legs all effectually. Make certain the rubber feet have not worn out. Replace any missing or damaged legs and feet. This replacement part is sold individually.

Installation Instructions

Bryan from due west valley city, UT

dryer had no heat, all other functions worked

After replacing the rut element as a guess, (which did not fix information technology), I measured voltage with a DVOM, found lower cutting off switch in op, And thanx to some tips on parts select I ordered the the Thermal cut off kit, fast shipping, installed very easily and all is working properly
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Dryer Cycling Thermostat

PartSelect Number
PS11741405

Manufacturer Part Number
WP3387134

This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 past ane.v inches, comes in black/silver and is synthetic of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.

Fixes these symptoms

  • No heat or not plenty estrus
  • Shuts off too soon
  • Takes besides long to dry
  • See more…

Installation Instructions

Tom from High Point, NC

Dryer blew cold air.

PartSelect is bang-up for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the ii parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for non looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
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